These tips can help you determine whether your vehicle has a loose gas cap or serious engine problems.
You're driving along in your car or truck and suddenly a yellow light illuminates on your dash telling you to check or service your engine. If you're like most car owners, you have little idea about what that light is trying to tell you or exactly how you should react.
Call it the most misunderstood indicator on your dashboard, the "check engine" light can mean many different things, from a loose gas cap to a seriously misfiring engine.
"It doesn't mean you have to pull the car over to the side of the road and call a tow truck. It does mean you should get the car checked out as soon as possible," says Dave Cappert of the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, a Virginia-based organization that tests and certifies auto technicians.
Ignore the warning, and you could end up damaging expensive components. It also can be a sign that your car is getting poor fuel economy and emitting higher levels of pollutants.
WHAT THE LIGHT MEANS
The "check engine" light is part of your car's so-called onboard diagnostics (OBD) system. Since the 1980s, computers increasingly have controlled and monitored vehicle performance, regulating such variables as engine speed (RPM), fuel mixture, and ignition timing. In some cars, the computer also tells the automatic transmission when to shift.
When it finds a problem in the electronic-control system that it can't correct, the computer turns on a yellow warning indicator that's labeled "check engine," "service engine soon" or "check powertrain." Or the light may be nothing more than a picture of an engine, known as the International Check Engine Symbol, perhaps with the word "Check." In addition to turning on the light, the computer stores a "trouble code" in its memory that identifies the source of the problem, such as a malfunctioning sensor or a misfiring engine. The code can be read with an electronic scan tool or a diagnostic computer, standard equipment in auto repair shops. There are also a number of relatively inexpensive code readers that are designed for do-it-yourselfers.
Manufacturers originally used the OBD system to help technicians pinpoint and troubleshoot malfunctions. But the systems now are required under federal laws governing automotive emissions. Although larger trucks have been exempt from the requirement, that quickly is changing.
"The 'check engine' light is reserved only for powertrain problems that could have an impact on the emissions systems," says John Van Gilder, General Motors' lead OBD development engineer.
Exactly what the OBD system looks for depends on the make, model and year. The original systems varied widely in their capabilities. Some did little more than check whether the various electronic sensors and actuators were hooked up and working.
That changed by 1996, when, under OBD II regulations, carmakers were required to install a much more sophisticated system that essentially acts like a built-in state emissions testing station. The computer monitors and adjusts dozens of components and processes. For example, it continually samples exhaust emissions as they come out of the engine and again when they leave the catalytic converter, a device that removes carbon monoxide and hydrocarbon pollutants from the exhaust. The system also monitors your car's fuel system to ensure that gasoline vapors are not escaping into the atmosphere through a leak or even a loose or missing gas cap. In most cases, if a problem occurs, the computer will wait to see if it corrects itself before turning on the light. Modern OBD II systems are so thorough that state testing centers increasingly are checking for any stored trouble codes and foregoing the traditional tailpipe emissions test.
Some states are considering an advanced OBD system that would allow them to do away with emissions testing. If the "check engine" light comes on, the system automatically would send a remote signal to state officials, who would contact motorists who don't have the problem corrected within a reasonable amount of time. Privacy advocates are criticizing the idea as being too intrusive. Depending on the system, officials might be able to trace where the vehicle had been. Proponents say the system would free motorists from the time and expense of having to undergo annual or biennial emission testing, and it would help ensure that emission-related problems are detected and fixed more quickly. Oregon expects to launch such a program on a voluntary basis in less than a year.
Remote diagnostics already can be found on GM vehicles equipped with the OnStar communications system. When the "check engine" light goes on, GM car owners can notify an OnStar representative, who can read the trouble code and provide advice.
WHAT TO DO
If your "check engine" light illuminates don't react like one Connecticut motorist, who simply poured an extra quart of engine oil into her 2002 Toyota Corolla. Although extreme situations, such as low oil pressure or an overheating engine, might trigger a "check engine" light, your dashboard has other lights and gauges to warn you about those problems and probably a lot sooner. The best advice is to read your owner's manual beforehand and learn the purpose of the "check engine" light and every other gauge and warning indicator on your dashboard. Periodically, you also should test the "check engine" light and other dashboard warning lights. Usually, you can do this by turning the key to the key-on/engine-off position. Consult the owner's manual for more information. Replace any bulbs that aren't working.
If the "check engine" light illuminates, it will either blink or remain constant, depending on the problem. Either way, you should have the vehicle checked by a mechanic, although a blinking light indicates a problem that needs immediate attention. In late-model cars, a blinking light usually indicates an engine misfire so severe that unburned fuel is being dumped into the exhaust system, where it can quickly damage the catalytic converter, requiring an expensive repair. If that happens, you should reduce power and have the car or truck looked at as soon as possible. If the light is steady, the problem is not an emergency, but you should schedule an appointment as soon as possible. Today's automotive computers often try to compensate when there's a problem; so you may not notice deterioration in performance, even though your fuel mileage is suffering and your vehicle is emitting unacceptable levels of hydrocarbons and other pollutants.
"The customer is really, in a long run, potentially hurting their pocket book by leaving that light and ignoring it," says Jim Collins, a national training team leader for Ford Motor Company. In some extreme cases, the car's computer may reduce power for you, as it tries to limit the risk of damage.
If the check-engine light comes on, here are some tips on what you should do:
Look for a serious problem that requires immediate attention. Check your dashboard gauges and lights for indications of low oil pressure or overheating. These conditions mean you should pull over and shut off the engine as soon as you can find a safe place to do so.
Try tightening your gas cap. This often solves the problem. Keep in mind that it may take several trips before the light resets. Some vehicles have a separate indicator that warns of a loose gas cap before the condition sets off the "check engine" light.
Reduce speed and load. If the "check engine" light is blinking or you notice any serious performance problems, such as a loss of power, reduce your speed and try to reduce the load on the engine. For example, it would be a good idea to stop towing a trailer. Have the car checked as soon as possible to prevent expensive damage.
Contact OnStar, if available. If you have a 1997 or later General Motors vehicle equipped with OnStar and an active OnStar subscription, contact an advisor who can read the trouble code remotely and advise you about what to do.
Have the code read and the problem fixed. If you want to diagnose the malfunction yourself, you can buy a scan tool at most auto parts stores. Prices range from about $40 to several hundred, depending on the model and the features. The tools come with instructions on how to hook them up and decipher the codes. But unless you have a good knowledge of automotive diagnostics, you're probably better off taking the vehicle to a professional. Some automotive parts stores will read and interpret the code for you without charge. Unless there is an easy fix, they may simply refer you to a mechanic.
Don't go for a state emissions test. In a late-model car, an illuminated "check engine" light probably is a sure sign your car will fail the test. In some states, it's an automatic failure, even if the problem was nothing more than a loose gas cap. By the way, don't bother trying to fool the inspection station by disconnecting the battery or using any other method to erase the trouble code and turn off the "check engine" light. Your vehicle's computer will let the inspection station know that its codes have been erased, and you'll just have to go back again.
source: http://www.consumerreports.org
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
How do I know if my alternator is charging properly?
If your battery is dead, keeps running down or cranks your engine slowly, you may have a charging problem. Likewise, if the alternator or battery warning light is on, or the amp or voltage gauge is reading low, that too probably indicates a charging problem.
A quick way to check the charging system is to start the car and turn on the headlights. If the headlights are dim, it indicates the lights are running off the battery and that little or no juice is being produced by the alternator. If the lights get brighter as you rev the engine, it means the alternator is producing some current but may not be producing enough at idle to keep the battery properly charged. If the lights have normal brightness and don’t change intensity as the engine is revved, your charging system is functioning normally.
You can also check the charging system by connecting the leads of a voltmeter to the battery. When the engine starts, the charging voltage should jump to about 14.5 or higher. If the reading doesn’t change or rises less than a volt, you have a charging problem that will require further diagnosis.
Charging Problems
Alternators are pretty rugged, but can succumb to excessive heat and overwork. They can also be damaged by sudden voltage overloads (as when someone attempts to jump start a dead battery and crosses up the jumper connections or if someone disconnects a battery cable from the battery while the engine is running).
Sometimes alternators can partially fail. In the back of every alternator is a "diode trio" that converts the alternators AC (alternating current) output to DC (direct current). If one or more of these diodes fail, the alternator’s amperage output will be reduced. It may continue to produce some current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged -- especially at idle or low speed.
Most service facilities have test equipment that can identify these kind of problems. So if you suspect a weak alternator, you should have it tested to see if it needs replacing.
Most service facilities do not repair or rebuild alternators because it’s too time consuming and requires special parts. Most will replace your old unit with a new or remanufactured unit. Your old alternator is usually traded in or exchanged for a credit (so it can be remanufactured and sold to someone else).
CAUTION: If you’re replacing an alternator yourself, always disconnect the battery before unhooking the wiring on the alternator. This step will eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting out a hot ware and damaging something or starting a fire.
The alternator drive belt should be inspected at this time, and replaced if it is cracked, oil soaked, glazed, badly worn or otherwise damaged. The belt should be adjusted for proper tension following the vehicle manufacturer’s guidelines. Too much tension can overload the alternator’s bearings and shorten the unit’s life (as well as belt life), while too little tension may allow the belt to slip.
source: http://autos.yahoo.com
A quick way to check the charging system is to start the car and turn on the headlights. If the headlights are dim, it indicates the lights are running off the battery and that little or no juice is being produced by the alternator. If the lights get brighter as you rev the engine, it means the alternator is producing some current but may not be producing enough at idle to keep the battery properly charged. If the lights have normal brightness and don’t change intensity as the engine is revved, your charging system is functioning normally.
You can also check the charging system by connecting the leads of a voltmeter to the battery. When the engine starts, the charging voltage should jump to about 14.5 or higher. If the reading doesn’t change or rises less than a volt, you have a charging problem that will require further diagnosis.
Charging Problems
Alternators are pretty rugged, but can succumb to excessive heat and overwork. They can also be damaged by sudden voltage overloads (as when someone attempts to jump start a dead battery and crosses up the jumper connections or if someone disconnects a battery cable from the battery while the engine is running).
Sometimes alternators can partially fail. In the back of every alternator is a "diode trio" that converts the alternators AC (alternating current) output to DC (direct current). If one or more of these diodes fail, the alternator’s amperage output will be reduced. It may continue to produce some current, but not enough to keep the battery fully charged -- especially at idle or low speed.
Most service facilities have test equipment that can identify these kind of problems. So if you suspect a weak alternator, you should have it tested to see if it needs replacing.
Most service facilities do not repair or rebuild alternators because it’s too time consuming and requires special parts. Most will replace your old unit with a new or remanufactured unit. Your old alternator is usually traded in or exchanged for a credit (so it can be remanufactured and sold to someone else).
CAUTION: If you’re replacing an alternator yourself, always disconnect the battery before unhooking the wiring on the alternator. This step will eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting out a hot ware and damaging something or starting a fire.
The alternator drive belt should be inspected at this time, and replaced if it is cracked, oil soaked, glazed, badly worn or otherwise damaged. The belt should be adjusted for proper tension following the vehicle manufacturer’s guidelines. Too much tension can overload the alternator’s bearings and shorten the unit’s life (as well as belt life), while too little tension may allow the belt to slip.
source: http://autos.yahoo.com
How can I tell if my battery is low and needs to be recharged?
The first and most likely indication of a low battery would be a hard starting problem caused by slow cranking. If the battery seems weak or fails to crank your engine normally, it may be low. To find out, you need to check the battery’s "state of charge."
A battery is nothing more than a chemical storage device for holding electrons until they’re needed to crank the engine or run the lights or other electrical accessories on your vehicle. Checking the battery’s state of charge will tell you how much juice the battery has available for such purposes.
If your battery is low, it needs to be recharged, not only to restore full power, but also to prevent possible damage to the battery. Ordinary automotive lead-acid storage batteries must be kept at or near full charge to keep the cell plates from becoming "sulfated" (a condition that occurs if the battery is run down and left in a discharged condition for more than a few days). As sulfate builds up, it reduces the battery’s ability to hold a charge and supply voltage. Eventually the battery becomes useless and must be replaced.
Checking The State Of Charge
The charge level depends on the concentration of acid inside the battery. The stronger the concentration of acid in the water, the higher the specific gravity of the solution, and the higher the state of charge.
On batteries with removable caps, state of charge can be checked with a "hydrometer." Some hydrometers have a calibrated float to measure the specific gravity of the acid solution while others simply have a number of colored balls. On the kind with a calibrated float, a hydrometer reading of 1.265 (corrected for temperature) indicates a fully charged battery, 1.230 indicates a 75% charge, 1.200 indicates a 50% charge, 1.170 indicates a 25% charge, and 1.140 or less indicates a discharged battery. On the kind that use floating balls, the number of balls that float tells you the approximate level of charge. All balls floating would indicate a fully charged battery, no balls floating would indicate a dead or fully discharged battery.
Some sealed-top batteries have a built-in hydrometer to indicate charge. The charge indicator only reads one cell, but usually shows the average charge for all battery cells. A green dot means the battery is 75% or more charged and is okay for use or further testing. No dot (a dark indicator) means the battery is low and should be recharged before it is returned to service or tested further. A clear or yellow indicator means the level of electrolyte inside has dropped too low, and the battery should be replaced.
On sealed-top batteries that do not have a built-in charge indicator, the state of charge can be determined by checking the battery’s base or open circuit voltage with a digital voltmeter or multimeter. This is done by touching the meter leads to the positive and negative battery terminals while the ignition key is off.
A reading of 12.66 volts indicates a fully charged battery; 12.45 volts is 75% charged, 12.24 volts is 50% charged, and 12.06 volts is 25% charged.
Recharging The Battery
CAUTION: Do not attempt to recharge a battery with low (or frozen) electrolyte! Doing so risks blowing up the battery if the hydrogen gas inside is ignited by a spark.
Your charging system should be capable of recharging the battery if it is not fully discharged. Thirty minutes or so of normal driving should be enough.
If your battery is completely dead or extremely low, it should be recharged with a fast or slow charger. This will reduce the risk of overtaxing and damaging your vehicle’s charging system. One or both battery cables should be disconnected from the battery prior to charging it with a charger. This will eliminate any risk of damage to your vehicle’s electrical system or its onboard electronics.
source: http://autos.yahoo.com
A battery is nothing more than a chemical storage device for holding electrons until they’re needed to crank the engine or run the lights or other electrical accessories on your vehicle. Checking the battery’s state of charge will tell you how much juice the battery has available for such purposes.
If your battery is low, it needs to be recharged, not only to restore full power, but also to prevent possible damage to the battery. Ordinary automotive lead-acid storage batteries must be kept at or near full charge to keep the cell plates from becoming "sulfated" (a condition that occurs if the battery is run down and left in a discharged condition for more than a few days). As sulfate builds up, it reduces the battery’s ability to hold a charge and supply voltage. Eventually the battery becomes useless and must be replaced.
Checking The State Of Charge
The charge level depends on the concentration of acid inside the battery. The stronger the concentration of acid in the water, the higher the specific gravity of the solution, and the higher the state of charge.
On batteries with removable caps, state of charge can be checked with a "hydrometer." Some hydrometers have a calibrated float to measure the specific gravity of the acid solution while others simply have a number of colored balls. On the kind with a calibrated float, a hydrometer reading of 1.265 (corrected for temperature) indicates a fully charged battery, 1.230 indicates a 75% charge, 1.200 indicates a 50% charge, 1.170 indicates a 25% charge, and 1.140 or less indicates a discharged battery. On the kind that use floating balls, the number of balls that float tells you the approximate level of charge. All balls floating would indicate a fully charged battery, no balls floating would indicate a dead or fully discharged battery.
Some sealed-top batteries have a built-in hydrometer to indicate charge. The charge indicator only reads one cell, but usually shows the average charge for all battery cells. A green dot means the battery is 75% or more charged and is okay for use or further testing. No dot (a dark indicator) means the battery is low and should be recharged before it is returned to service or tested further. A clear or yellow indicator means the level of electrolyte inside has dropped too low, and the battery should be replaced.
On sealed-top batteries that do not have a built-in charge indicator, the state of charge can be determined by checking the battery’s base or open circuit voltage with a digital voltmeter or multimeter. This is done by touching the meter leads to the positive and negative battery terminals while the ignition key is off.
A reading of 12.66 volts indicates a fully charged battery; 12.45 volts is 75% charged, 12.24 volts is 50% charged, and 12.06 volts is 25% charged.
Recharging The Battery
CAUTION: Do not attempt to recharge a battery with low (or frozen) electrolyte! Doing so risks blowing up the battery if the hydrogen gas inside is ignited by a spark.
Your charging system should be capable of recharging the battery if it is not fully discharged. Thirty minutes or so of normal driving should be enough.
If your battery is completely dead or extremely low, it should be recharged with a fast or slow charger. This will reduce the risk of overtaxing and damaging your vehicle’s charging system. One or both battery cables should be disconnected from the battery prior to charging it with a charger. This will eliminate any risk of damage to your vehicle’s electrical system or its onboard electronics.
source: http://autos.yahoo.com
Drivemocion - bringing passive aggressive emoticoning to the road
Has anyone *not* had the old 'wouldn't it be great if there was an LED scrolling text bar at the bottom of your back windscreen you could use to convey your displeasure to other drivers' conversation? It tends to happen about 40% through your epic car journey, just before you decide that your need to increase your blood sugar is too great and you pull over to a service station.
This is a starting point. An alternative to the 'Baby on board' sign, you can stick this to your back windscreen and then use the remote to choose your signal. There's thanks, sorry and a smiley face - so far so good. There's 'back off' - slightly more aggressive, no? Then there's The Finger. And if you use this, you deserve to lose your wing mirrors. Weirdly, it's been ok'd by the Department of Transport.
What We Say
There are times when a simple middle finger will express your sentiments perfectly, however there are other times when a little device like the Drivemocion are incredibly useful.
Manufacturers Description
You can use them in your car too, to send a message to other road users. The Drivemocion is a battery powered, wirelessly controlled message sign that can be attached to the rear window of your car via the included suction cup. A remote control unit is kept in the front of the car (fixed to front window, dash, or laid in a storage compartment) to activate the messages by pressing one of its buttons.
You'll have five buttons to choose from, so you can smile or wink, or chose one of 3 text messages - 'thank you', 'sorry' and 'back off'. You can pick the one that best expresses your current feelings.
Drivemocion is not wired into the vehicle and is activated and controlled using the wireless remote.
Is the Drivemocion legal to use in the UK?
Yes! It has been verified by the Department of Transport.
Please Note
Requires 4 x AA batteries and 2 x AAA batteries which are not included.
source: http://www.shinyshiny.tv
MyCar electric car to arrive for Christmas '08
The NICE Car Company has confirmed its MyCar two-seater electric vehicle will be delivered to customers before Christmas.
Unveiled in 2004 but only launched in the UK at the British Motor Show earlier this year, the MyCar isn't the most powerful EV of 2008, but it's certainly the cutest.
With a range of 60 miles and 40mph, the city runabout goes head-to-head with EV distributor Goingreen and its £9500 G-Wiz i.
The MyCar, which has a slightly cheaper price of £9000, will also compete with NICE's own Mega City.
The MyCar uses a lead acid battery - a relatively old technology compared to the Tesla Roadster's new lithium-ion batteries - and can recharge in 5 hours. Like other EVs, it's exempt from the Congestion Charge.
NICE tells us that orders taken now for the MyCar will be delivered by Christmas 2008.
source: http://www.pocket-lint.co.uk
Cars that save gas also lead in reliability
Fuel-efficient vehicles are a very reliable segment of the automotive market overall, according to the editors of Consumer Reports. Ford's reliability on many...
By the Editors of Consumer Reports
Fuel-efficient vehicles are a very reliable segment of the automotive market overall, according to the editors of Consumer Reports. Ford's reliability on many models is as good as its Japanese counterparts. And European cars, which have trailed the domestic models for about five years, are showing signs of improvement.
Those are some of the findings of CR's 2008 Annual Car Reliability Survey, based on subscribers' experiences with 1.4 million vehicles. Respondents reported on any serious problems they had with their vehicles in 17 trouble spots during the previous 12 months, which allowed CR to provide predicted-reliability ratings for new cars.
A total of nine hybrid models for which CR had sufficient data rated above average in predicted reliability, most from Japanese automakers. From the Family Cars category, the Toyota Prius, the Toyota Camry Hybrid and the Nissan Altima Hybrid, as well as the luxury Lexus GS450h Hybrid sedan are all among the most reliable.
The Lexus RX400h and the Toyota Highlander Hybrid are among the most reliable in midsized SUVs, while the Ford Escape Hybrid and Mercury Mariner Hybrid small SUVs rated above average in predicted reliability. The Honda Civic Hybrid is also above average. In addition, conventional gas sippers such as the Honda Fit, Scion xD, Smart ForTwo and Toyota Yaris had few problems.
Ford's three nameplates — Ford, Lincoln and Mercury — lead the domestic automakers and continue to pull away from the rest of Detroit. Except for some truck-based vehicles, almost all Ford products are now average or better. Excluding those, Ford's reliability is now on par with good Japanese automakers. The Ford Fusion and Mercury Milan continued to rank among the most reliable family cars. The freshened Ford Focus sedan rated above average, a vast improvement from when the new model debuted in 2000 with below-average reliability.
European automakers, particularly Mercedes-Benz, showed signs of a comeback. Six Mercedes models, including the redesigned C-Class and E-Class (V6) sedans and the ML350 SUV have improved to average reliability and are now recommended. Last year, no Mercedes models had average or better reliability and so could not be recommended by CR.
Still, Japanese cars are the most reliable overall, leading 15 of 16 categories in CR's predicted reliability ratings. The Scion xD has the best predicted reliability score for all new cars with about 80 percent fewer problems than the average model.
CR's other findings include:
• European and Japanese brands rebound. Though Mercedes-Benz has shown improvement, a third of its models still have reliability problems, and no models scored above average.
Last year, CR called out three Toyota models that slipped to below average: the Camry V6, Tundra V8 4WD and the Lexus GS AWD. But Toyota seems to have rectified some of the problems since all 42 of the Toyota, Lexus and Scion models in the survey scored average or better. The three models noted above scored average.
Nissan showed some striking improvements, with the troublesome Armada SUV, Titan pickup and Infiniti QX56 SUV finally gaining average reliability.
• Korean brands excel. The two closely related South Korean nameplates, Hyundai and Kia, rank right up there with the better Japanese makers. Most models scored above average or better.
• General Motors is a mixed bag. Among the bright spots is the redesigned Chevrolet Malibu with above-average reliability for the four-cylinder model and average for the V6. But a quarter of GM models are still well below average.
• Chrysler struggles. Chrysler trails the pack. Though the Dodge Caliber hatchback and Jeep Patriot SUV are above average, almost two-thirds of its products rate below average. The new Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan minivans earned low scores, as did the Chrysler Sebring V6 and Dodge Avenger sedans and Jeep Liberty SUV.
The Sebring convertible had the worst predicted reliability score: 283 percent worse than average.
Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company
source: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com
By the Editors of Consumer Reports
Fuel-efficient vehicles are a very reliable segment of the automotive market overall, according to the editors of Consumer Reports. Ford's reliability on many models is as good as its Japanese counterparts. And European cars, which have trailed the domestic models for about five years, are showing signs of improvement.
Those are some of the findings of CR's 2008 Annual Car Reliability Survey, based on subscribers' experiences with 1.4 million vehicles. Respondents reported on any serious problems they had with their vehicles in 17 trouble spots during the previous 12 months, which allowed CR to provide predicted-reliability ratings for new cars.
A total of nine hybrid models for which CR had sufficient data rated above average in predicted reliability, most from Japanese automakers. From the Family Cars category, the Toyota Prius, the Toyota Camry Hybrid and the Nissan Altima Hybrid, as well as the luxury Lexus GS450h Hybrid sedan are all among the most reliable.
The Lexus RX400h and the Toyota Highlander Hybrid are among the most reliable in midsized SUVs, while the Ford Escape Hybrid and Mercury Mariner Hybrid small SUVs rated above average in predicted reliability. The Honda Civic Hybrid is also above average. In addition, conventional gas sippers such as the Honda Fit, Scion xD, Smart ForTwo and Toyota Yaris had few problems.
Ford's three nameplates — Ford, Lincoln and Mercury — lead the domestic automakers and continue to pull away from the rest of Detroit. Except for some truck-based vehicles, almost all Ford products are now average or better. Excluding those, Ford's reliability is now on par with good Japanese automakers. The Ford Fusion and Mercury Milan continued to rank among the most reliable family cars. The freshened Ford Focus sedan rated above average, a vast improvement from when the new model debuted in 2000 with below-average reliability.
European automakers, particularly Mercedes-Benz, showed signs of a comeback. Six Mercedes models, including the redesigned C-Class and E-Class (V6) sedans and the ML350 SUV have improved to average reliability and are now recommended. Last year, no Mercedes models had average or better reliability and so could not be recommended by CR.
Still, Japanese cars are the most reliable overall, leading 15 of 16 categories in CR's predicted reliability ratings. The Scion xD has the best predicted reliability score for all new cars with about 80 percent fewer problems than the average model.
CR's other findings include:
• European and Japanese brands rebound. Though Mercedes-Benz has shown improvement, a third of its models still have reliability problems, and no models scored above average.
Last year, CR called out three Toyota models that slipped to below average: the Camry V6, Tundra V8 4WD and the Lexus GS AWD. But Toyota seems to have rectified some of the problems since all 42 of the Toyota, Lexus and Scion models in the survey scored average or better. The three models noted above scored average.
Nissan showed some striking improvements, with the troublesome Armada SUV, Titan pickup and Infiniti QX56 SUV finally gaining average reliability.
• Korean brands excel. The two closely related South Korean nameplates, Hyundai and Kia, rank right up there with the better Japanese makers. Most models scored above average or better.
• General Motors is a mixed bag. Among the bright spots is the redesigned Chevrolet Malibu with above-average reliability for the four-cylinder model and average for the V6. But a quarter of GM models are still well below average.
• Chrysler struggles. Chrysler trails the pack. Though the Dodge Caliber hatchback and Jeep Patriot SUV are above average, almost two-thirds of its products rate below average. The new Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan minivans earned low scores, as did the Chrysler Sebring V6 and Dodge Avenger sedans and Jeep Liberty SUV.
The Sebring convertible had the worst predicted reliability score: 283 percent worse than average.
Copyright © 2008 The Seattle Times Company
source: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com
Sunday, November 16, 2008
2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan - Review
The 2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan leads the way in European design stateside. The contemporary styling, similar to that of the Scion xD, is only overshadowed by the Yaris Sedan's impressive fuel economy and wealth of optional features. The Yaris is priced affordably, so even the most frugal buyer should be pleased. As a carryover from the prior model year, the 2009 model maintains the same wealth of standard features and remarkable number of optional accessories. The only major flaw of this sedan is lack of standard high-tech gadgetry.
Under the hood, this model is fitted with a practical 106 horsepower 1.5L DOHC I4. With Variable Valve Timing, the Yaris is able to conserve even more fuel for an EPA estimated rating of 29 city MPG and 36 highway MPG. Also, this Toyota is ranked as an ultra-low emissions vehicle, which will surely satisfy the environmentally friendly buyer. Two transmission options, a five-speed manual with overdrive and a four-speed electronically controlled automatic with overdrive, allows buyers to customize the model to fit their unique driving needs.
features galore in this 2009 model. An advanced airbag system, four-wheel anti-lock brakes, three-point seatbelts, and a tire pressure monitoring system come standard on the 2009 Yaris. The tire pressure monitoring system features a digital display in the instrument cluster that alerts drivers if a tire has too high or too low pressure. An energy-absorbing steering column that takes in the force of the driver's body in the event of a collision rather than deflecting it.
, the Toyota Yaris Sedan has a CFC-free air conditioner, two 12-volt auxiliary power outlets, and twin tripometers. The CFC-free air conditioner does not emit harmful carbons into the atmosphere. Most other features are considered upgrades like power windows and locks, remote keyless entry, and the theft-deterrent engine immobilizer. Accessories that can be added to the Yaris range from a sporty rear spoiler to an interior light kit, which gives the model ambient lighting in the floorboards in a range of colors. Buyers can also opt for a Power Package that includes a premium sound system with MP3 compatibilities, cruise control, and power sideview mirrors.
Taken as a whole, the 2009 Toyota Yaris Sedan is an affordable entry-level model that provides superior gas mileage and customization options. Priced at $12,965, the Yaris is within the means of most buyers. However, the vehicle's design might not be for everyone, and some might rather opt for a more familiarly styled sedan.
source: http://www.carseek.com
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Car Covers
Car covers can help protect your car parked in the great outdoors from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation, acid rain, bird droppings, wind borne particles, sun fading, the claws of animals and even the prying eyes of thieves (let them guess as opposed to knowing). Inside your garage a quality cover provides a barrier against airborne dirt and foot borne varmints. (If it rains in your garage, you have probl
ems that are not covered by this article.)
The use of a car cover is a double-edged sword, as they are both protective and possibly damaging. A cover that does not fit properly may be more damaging than no cover at all. If it is too loose, wind may cause it to flap against the paint, causing severe scratching. To obtain the best fit, order a cover that is custom fitted for your year and make of car. The "one size fits all" are cheaper, but will not provide the tight fit needed. If the car is not clean, the dirt trapped between the paint and the cover can also cause scratches as the cover is installed or removed or is moved around by the wind. The key to avoiding these problems is to put a proper fitting cover on a clean car. The best types have a bottom locking system that allows a plastic coated cable to hold the bottom of the cover snugly. This will help prevent wind movement of the cover and thieves from taking a peek.
Armed with the proper information, you may make an informed choice as to the advisability of using a car cover and the best type for your needs. There are three basic types; water proof, water resistant or "breathable" and non-water resistant. Each has it's own advantages and problems. (And you thought only kids came with built-in problems.)
The waterproof car covers are usually plastic film or a plastic coated fabric and will keep the rain off your car, but will also trap condensation between the cover and your car. This trapped moisture may attack your paint with results that are worse than if you just left the car uncovered. The plastic type of car cover is useful if you store your car over the winter in a garage and use a flannel cloth cover against the surface and the plastic one as an outer protective shield. The flannel will wick off any moisture and the plastic adds a tough outer protective layer to help keep the varmints from nesting in the soft cloth. One manufacturer makes a giant "baggie" for your car called the Omni Bag. These are very useful if you store the car over the winter and wish to provide the extra level of protection gained from "sealing" the car. Place some desiccants in the bag to absorb excess moisture and seal your pride and joy for its winter hibernation. Another trick to protect any winter-stored car is to place mothballs around the exterior to discourage the rodents from moving in for the winter and dining on your insulation and wiring. Their gourmet appetites make for some interesting problems. One person had mice stuff the exhaust pipe with acorns. When he started the car in the spring, the resulting acorn shotgun blast dented his metal garage door. If you wish to rid yourself of the rodents, lay dishes of Instant Potato Buds and dishes of water around the outside of your car. They eat the Buds and drink the water and go *KA-BOOM.
The second type of cover material, the water resistant or "breathable" type, is available in an almost bewildering array of fabrics, weights and types. These types of covers will repel most of the water yet allow air to circulate, preventing condensation. Most have ultraviolet screens woven into the mesh to help them withstand sunlight degradation and are usually mildew resistant. The lightest weight car cover currently available is made from Tyvek. This cover weighs about 3 pounds and is very easy to put on and take off. Tyvek is very water resistant and sheds most of the water, yet is so light that the wind will tend to beat the cover against the finish. Unless care is taken to insure that this type of cover is fitted very tightly, it may beat your paint into submission. Tyvek covers lend themselves for very short-term use, such as daily use in the office parking lot. Evolution by Kimberly Clark is a multi-layer "waffle pattern" cover that offers great protection from the elements, available in numerous colors, and is thick enough to help soften the blow of door dings. For outside use, custom fitted Evolution covers offer the best protection. The downside is they are heavy, difficult to put on and take off and if the paint surface is not clean, they may tend to scratch the surface. If you are storing a car outside for long periods of time, this may be the best choice. Another type of composite cover uses a clothing style breathable nylon or polyester outer layer with a foamed acrylic inner lining. This combination is not that water resistant, it instead "filters" the water, allowing only "clean water" to reach the surface. This filtering process, in my humble opinion, only removes the gross dirt. It does not remove the acid from acid rain (unless there is a tiny chemical factory inside the cover that no one has told me about). These types of covers are usually lighter, thus easier to install/remove, than the Evolution type and may be more suited for short-term use. There are a multitude of other "filtering" materials available, such as rip-stop nylon, synthetic sail cloth and boat canvas. Most of these are found on the relatively inexpensive one-size fits all type of mass-market covers and may not be that suitable.
The third major type of cover material is 100% cotton or cotton/polyester blends available in a flannel style or regular cloth style. I prefer the 100% cotton, as the polyester fibers may scratch the paint. These are not water resistant and should not be used outside for long periods of time. For indoor use, the 100% cotton flannel cover is the most gentle on the paint and probably the best choice. The flannel lining may cause lint balls on your canvas cabriolet top (automotive fur balls?), so you may consider a plain cotton cover for your Cabrio. If you store your car over the winter, or drive your pride and joy infrequently, a 100% cotton cover may be a wise investment.
One of the tricks to installing/removing a car cover is to roll the cover on and off the car. The first step is to place the cover on the car in position, but not hooked under the car. Take the driver's side one third of the cover and fold it over the top of the car towards the passenger side, so the fold runs along the edge of the top, hood, and trunk. You will find that the roof is usually one third of the cover and the sides are each a one third. Fold the passenger side third of the cover over the driver's side section, so you now have three layers of cover over the roof, hood and trunk. Start rolling at either the trunk or hood end and roll the cover up with out moving the cover. Walk along the car as you roll up the cover. This way, you have minimized the movement/scratching of the car cover as you remove it. To install, just reverse the process and unroll along the car and fold down the sides.
Car cover care is simple, and usually involves cleaning it periodically. Read your cover's directions carefully. Most may be washed in the washing machine with a mild detergent and no fabric softener. Dry thoroughly according to the manufacturer's directions. No car cover should be stored wet. If it is removed wet, dry as soon as possible. Solvents, such a gasoline, etc. will usually eat holes in your cover. Most are not that happy if they are draped on hot exhaust pipes, they tend to melt and leave a gooey mess that is a thrill to clean.
ems that are not covered by this article.)The use of a car cover is a double-edged sword, as they are both protective and possibly damaging. A cover that does not fit properly may be more damaging than no cover at all. If it is too loose, wind may cause it to flap against the paint, causing severe scratching. To obtain the best fit, order a cover that is custom fitted for your year and make of car. The "one size fits all" are cheaper, but will not provide the tight fit needed. If the car is not clean, the dirt trapped between the paint and the cover can also cause scratches as the cover is installed or removed or is moved around by the wind. The key to avoiding these problems is to put a proper fitting cover on a clean car. The best types have a bottom locking system that allows a plastic coated cable to hold the bottom of the cover snugly. This will help prevent wind movement of the cover and thieves from taking a peek.
Armed with the proper information, you may make an informed choice as to the advisability of using a car cover and the best type for your needs. There are three basic types; water proof, water resistant or "breathable" and non-water resistant. Each has it's own advantages and problems. (And you thought only kids came with built-in problems.)
The waterproof car covers are usually plastic film or a plastic coated fabric and will keep the rain off your car, but will also trap condensation between the cover and your car. This trapped moisture may attack your paint with results that are worse than if you just left the car uncovered. The plastic type of car cover is useful if you store your car over the winter in a garage and use a flannel cloth cover against the surface and the plastic one as an outer protective shield. The flannel will wick off any moisture and the plastic adds a tough outer protective layer to help keep the varmints from nesting in the soft cloth. One manufacturer makes a giant "baggie" for your car called the Omni Bag. These are very useful if you store the car over the winter and wish to provide the extra level of protection gained from "sealing" the car. Place some desiccants in the bag to absorb excess moisture and seal your pride and joy for its winter hibernation. Another trick to protect any winter-stored car is to place mothballs around the exterior to discourage the rodents from moving in for the winter and dining on your insulation and wiring. Their gourmet appetites make for some interesting problems. One person had mice stuff the exhaust pipe with acorns. When he started the car in the spring, the resulting acorn shotgun blast dented his metal garage door. If you wish to rid yourself of the rodents, lay dishes of Instant Potato Buds and dishes of water around the outside of your car. They eat the Buds and drink the water and go *KA-BOOM.
The second type of cover material, the water resistant or "breathable" type, is available in an almost bewildering array of fabrics, weights and types. These types of covers will repel most of the water yet allow air to circulate, preventing condensation. Most have ultraviolet screens woven into the mesh to help them withstand sunlight degradation and are usually mildew resistant. The lightest weight car cover currently available is made from Tyvek. This cover weighs about 3 pounds and is very easy to put on and take off. Tyvek is very water resistant and sheds most of the water, yet is so light that the wind will tend to beat the cover against the finish. Unless care is taken to insure that this type of cover is fitted very tightly, it may beat your paint into submission. Tyvek covers lend themselves for very short-term use, such as daily use in the office parking lot. Evolution by Kimberly Clark is a multi-layer "waffle pattern" cover that offers great protection from the elements, available in numerous colors, and is thick enough to help soften the blow of door dings. For outside use, custom fitted Evolution covers offer the best protection. The downside is they are heavy, difficult to put on and take off and if the paint surface is not clean, they may tend to scratch the surface. If you are storing a car outside for long periods of time, this may be the best choice. Another type of composite cover uses a clothing style breathable nylon or polyester outer layer with a foamed acrylic inner lining. This combination is not that water resistant, it instead "filters" the water, allowing only "clean water" to reach the surface. This filtering process, in my humble opinion, only removes the gross dirt. It does not remove the acid from acid rain (unless there is a tiny chemical factory inside the cover that no one has told me about). These types of covers are usually lighter, thus easier to install/remove, than the Evolution type and may be more suited for short-term use. There are a multitude of other "filtering" materials available, such as rip-stop nylon, synthetic sail cloth and boat canvas. Most of these are found on the relatively inexpensive one-size fits all type of mass-market covers and may not be that suitable.
The third major type of cover material is 100% cotton or cotton/polyester blends available in a flannel style or regular cloth style. I prefer the 100% cotton, as the polyester fibers may scratch the paint. These are not water resistant and should not be used outside for long periods of time. For indoor use, the 100% cotton flannel cover is the most gentle on the paint and probably the best choice. The flannel lining may cause lint balls on your canvas cabriolet top (automotive fur balls?), so you may consider a plain cotton cover for your Cabrio. If you store your car over the winter, or drive your pride and joy infrequently, a 100% cotton cover may be a wise investment.
One of the tricks to installing/removing a car cover is to roll the cover on and off the car. The first step is to place the cover on the car in position, but not hooked under the car. Take the driver's side one third of the cover and fold it over the top of the car towards the passenger side, so the fold runs along the edge of the top, hood, and trunk. You will find that the roof is usually one third of the cover and the sides are each a one third. Fold the passenger side third of the cover over the driver's side section, so you now have three layers of cover over the roof, hood and trunk. Start rolling at either the trunk or hood end and roll the cover up with out moving the cover. Walk along the car as you roll up the cover. This way, you have minimized the movement/scratching of the car cover as you remove it. To install, just reverse the process and unroll along the car and fold down the sides.
Car cover care is simple, and usually involves cleaning it periodically. Read your cover's directions carefully. Most may be washed in the washing machine with a mild detergent and no fabric softener. Dry thoroughly according to the manufacturer's directions. No car cover should be stored wet. If it is removed wet, dry as soon as possible. Solvents, such a gasoline, etc. will usually eat holes in your cover. Most are not that happy if they are draped on hot exhaust pipes, they tend to melt and leave a gooey mess that is a thrill to clean.
11 car-care tips that save gas
Since gas prices are going up and it seems like your gas gauge is faster to go empty than your speedometer to reach 100kmh here are 11 car care tips that saves gas I found.
Fill up with a lower-octane gasoline. Buy the lowest grade or octane of gasoline that is appropriate for your car. Unless your car requires premium gasoline, filling up your car with high-octane fuel is a waste of money. That pricey premium fuel won't boost your car's fuel economy or performance in the least, so skip it. If you're not sure what grade of fuel works best for your car, open up your owner's manual and take a look. As long as your engine doesn't knock or ping when you fuel up with regular unleaded, you're good to drive on this much cheaper gas. Passing on pricey premium gasoline could save you hundreds of dollars a year.
Don't top off. Don't bother topping off when filling your car's gas tank. Any additional gas is just going to slop around or seep out. Why waste your money paying for gas your car won't use? Stop pumping at the first indication that your tank is full when the automatic nozzle clicks off.
Tighten up that gas cap. Gas will evaporate from your car's gas tank if it has an escape. Loose, missing or damaged gas caps cause 147 million gallons of gas to evaporate each year, according to the Car Care Council. So be sure to tighten up that gas cap each time you fuel up your car.
Go for the shade. The hot summer sun that makes the inside of your car feel like a sauna also zaps fuel from your gas tank.
"If you let your car bake in the sun there's going to be a greater amount of evaporative emissions that take place than if you park in the shade," says Jim Kliesch, research associate at the American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy and vehicle analyst for GreenerCars.com.
So park your car in the shade of a building or tree whenever possible. And buy a good windshield shade. A windshield shade blocks sunlight and helps to keep heat out of the inside of your car.
Use your garage for your car. Got a garage? Clear it out and make room for your car. Parking in your garage will help your car stay warm in winter and cool in summer, and you won't have to depend as much on your gas-guzzling air-conditioning or defroster when you drive.
Pump up your tires. Don't get caught driving on underinflated tires. Underinflated tires wear down more quickly and they also lower your car's gas mileage.
"Tires that have low pressure offer more resistance so the engine is going to work harder to keep the car at 60," says Brian Moody, road test editor at Edmunds.com.
Your car's gas mileage may plummet by as much as 15 percent. Driving on underinflated tires may also reduce the life of your tires by 15 percent or more.
Check your tire pressure once a month. Buy a digital gauge and keep it in your glove box. Compare the pressure in your tires with the recommended pressure listed in your owner's manual and on the placard in your car door. Then inflate your tires as needed. Be sure to check tire pressure when your tires are cold. A good time is early in the morning after your car's been idle overnight.
Keep your engine in tune. Fixing a car that is out of tune or has failed an emissions test can boost gas mileage by about 4 percent. So be sure to give your car regular tune-ups. You'll also want to watch out for worn spark plugs. A misfiring spark plug can reduce a car's fuel efficiency by as much as 30 percent.
Replace air filters. Keep a close eye on your engine's air filter. When the engine air filter clogs with dirt, dust and bugs, it causes your engine to work harder and your car becomes less fuel-efficient. Replacing a clogged air filter could improve your gas mileage by as much as 10 percent and save you 15 cents a gallon. It's a good idea to have your engine air filter checked at each oil change. The Car Care Council recommends changing your car's air and oil filters every three months or 3,000 miles or as specified in your owner's manual.
Use the right oil. You can improve your car's gas mileage by 1 percent to 2 percent by using the manufacturer's recommended grade of motor oil. Opt for motor oil with the words "energy conserving" on the API performance label. This oil contains friction-reducing additives.
Don't skimp on maintenance. Be serious about auto care. Your car's performance depends on it.
"Always follow the manufacturer-recommended maintenance," Moody says. "The car's designed to run a certain way. If you neglect it, it won't be as efficient."
Obey the car-care guidelines outlined in your owner's manual.
new Scuderia Spider 16M
Ferrari has chosen to unveil the new Scuderia Spider 16M at the World Finals in Mugello in celebration of its recent victory in the Formula 1 Constructor's World Championship 2008. This new high performance sports car features the very best of Ferrari's latest mid-rear-engined 8-cylinder technology. In fact, the Scuderia Spider 16M is faster round the Fiorano circuit than any other Prancing Horse open-top road car yet built. This truly evocative special series model, of which just 499 unique examples will be produced, is aimed at the most passionate clients, drivers who demand both exclusivity and superb driving pleasure.
The Scuderia Spider 16M is available in a choice of two new signature colour schemes: the standard version is black with grey trim, while a tricolour livery is also available as part of the Carrozzeria Scaglietti Personalisation Programme. The new car also sports a special plaque on its rear grille commemorating Ferrari's 16th Constructor's World title. The exclusivity of the interior is underscored by the silver 'limited series' plaque just above the air vents at the centre of the dashboard. Other exclusive features include a roll-bar with carbon-fibre outer shell and a specific new generation audio system that can be combined with the removable customised Ferrari iPod Touch 16 GB with central dock just in front of the dashboard.
The Scuderia Spider 16M is available in a choice of two new signature colour schemes: the standard version is black with grey trim, while a tricolour livery is also available as part of the Carrozzeria Scaglietti Personalisation Programme. The new car also sports a special plaque on its rear grille commemorating Ferrari's 16th Constructor's World title. The exclusivity of the interior is underscored by the silver 'limited series' plaque just above the air vents at the centre of the dashboard. Other exclusive features include a roll-bar with carbon-fibre outer shell and a specific new generation audio system that can be combined with the removable customised Ferrari iPod Touch 16 GB with central dock just in front of the dashboard.
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